Head to the Beach

It has been blazing hot lately. Luckily, I'm just a short drive from the beach. So that's where you will find me these days.................................................
Hot days require lighter food. Gazpacho and Crab Towers were on the menu last night. The Crab Towers are very easy to make and as for the Gazpacho - tomatoes, cucumber, roasted red, yellow and orange peppers all tossed in the blender, topped with a little olive oil.

Los Vascos Sauvignon was a perfect pairing. Crisp with a little grapefruit on the finish.

Shrimp and Crab Tower with Tangerine

Serves 6

From Chef Frank Stitt

Bottega Restaurant

For Sherry Vinaigrette

1 medium shallot, peeled and finely chopped

1 sprig fresh thyme, finely minced

1/3 cup sherry vinegar

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon honey

juice of 1 lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix shallot, thyme and vinegar together: set aside at least one hour. Whisk olive oil and honey with vinegar mixture to combine. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper. Set aside.

For Crab Towers:

1 tablespoon chopped chives, tarragon or flat-leaf parsley

3/4 pound jumbo lump crab meat, picked free of shells and cartilage

2 tangerines, peeled and cut into 1/4" dice

1/4 pound medium shrimp boiled, peeled, deveined and cut into 1/4' dice

juice of 1/2 lemon

1 heaping tablespoon lemon mayonnaise

2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted, cut into 1/4" cubes and tossed with a little lemon juice

In small bowl, dress chopped herbs with 1 tablespoon Sherry Vinaigrette. Add crab meat and 1 tablespoon vinaigrette and gently toss with chopped herbs: set aside. in second small bowl, combine tangerines with 1 teaspoon vinaigrette: set aside, reserving remaining vinaigrette. in third bowl, toss shrimp with lemon mayonnaise and lemon juice: set aside.

Place 2 1/2" round-by-3"-high mold in center of large plate. Fill with 2 tablespoons crabmeat mixture and 2 tablespoons avocado, packing down tightly with back of small spoon. Repeat layering with 2 tablespoons each crab meat, avocado and tangerine, then finish with shrimp, pressing each layer down firmly as before. Unmold on serving plate by gently lifting ring while pressing down on top of tower.

Note: chef Stitt uses 2 1/2" PVC tubing cut into 3" lengths for his molds.

Photography By: Ryannan Bryer de Hickman

Sotto Il Monte Vineyards

LA CUCINA VIGNETO ....... Piatto a Base di Maiale e Fagioli

Occasionally I'll receive a photo assignment where I am required to prepare and photograph the food. This was one such assignment. The food editor has a great sense of humor and she emailed me - "Can you do a food shot on short notice? It is an upscale version of Pork & Beans!" What? But I said that I would - not knowing I would have to jump through a few hoops and fast to obtain the ingredients for this dish. The article was to be about Paul Kahan, Executive Chef/Partner of Blackbird, a very upscale restaurant in Chicago. Kahan was the winner of the James Beard Best Chef of the Midwest 2004 and a 2007 nominee for the James Beard Outstanding Chef.

The Recipe? Braised Pork Belly with Fresh Shell Bean Ragout. "Braised Pork Belly!" Now that just sounds awful doesn't it? Not easy to find either. You usually have to order it from Slagel Family Farms or Niman Ranch.
At any rate, I was able to track down the ingredients and prepare and photograph this dish in time for publication. I was very skeptical until I actually tasted this. It was incredibly good.

When I serve it at my house it's "Piatto a Base di Maiale e Fagioli" - just sounds so much better!
Braised Pork Belly with Fresh Shell Bean Ragout

Blackbird Executive Chef Paul Kahan

Braised Pork Belly:

Pork Belly, approximately five pounds

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil

1 tablespoon coriander seed

1 tablespoon fennel seed

1/2 teaspoon cumin seed

8 heads finely chopped garlic

1 onion, diced

2 celery, diced

2 medium carrots, dices

1 cup white wine

3 cups chicken stock

1 large sprig of thyme

The night before, trim all but one inch fat off the pork. Score fat. Separately, lightly toast all the seeds and coarsely grind. Cover the pork on the top and bottom with seeds.

the next day, scrape the seeds off the fat side of the pork. Season well with salt and pepper.

Heat a large, heavy bottom saucepan over medium heat and add the pork, fat-side down. When the fat is a nice brown color, remove pork to a roasting pan, fat side up.

bring chicken stock to a boil.

Pour off most of the fat and add the mirepoix. Saute mirepoix until just tender, season and add wine. Reduce wine to au sec.

Pour vegetable mixture over the pork, add chicken stock and thyme and season so the braising liquid is just salty.

Cook, uncovered, in 325 degree oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until it is extremely tender when pierced. Let cool in liquid.

when mixture is cool, remove pork, divide into four pieces and set aside. Skim fat off the top of the braising liquid and strain through a fine-mesh strainer, pushing just gently.

Fresh Shell Bean Ragout:

1/4 pound pancetta, medium dice

1 teaspoon olive oil

5 shallots, sliced thinly

5 cloves garlic, sliced thinly

2 1/2 cups fresh cranberry beans, shelled

2 cups braising juice (from pork belly)

1/2 teaspoon herbs de Provence

salt and pepper

Render pancetta in saute pan until just crisp. if needed, add a bit of water to facilitate rendering.

Add olive oil, heat briefly and add shallots and garlic, sweating them until just tender.

Add beans, braising liquid, herbs de Provence and simmer until beans are soft (not toothsome).

Red cabbage and Parsley Salad:

1/2 cup very thinly shaved red cabbage

1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

Splash champagne vinegar

Combine all ingredients and season to taste.

Assembly:

In a black steel saucepan, render the fat side of the pork over medium-high heat.

When nicely browned, reduce heat to medium and brown remaining sides.

Spoon 1/4 cup shell bean ragout, with juice, into the center of a plate.

Top with pork belly, fat-side up, and top with cabbage and parsley salad.

Photography By: Ryannan Bryer de Hickman

Sotto Il Monte Vineyards

A COUPLE OF DAYS IN THE GARDEN

I fully intended to try and live up to my Lovely Blog Award by posting a witty and creative entry yesterday. Normally, I'm thinking about photos that I want to take or photos that I must take for assignments. I sat down at the computer early yesterday morning (I rise at 5:30 most days) to work on a post. A sort of blankness started creeping in. I stared at the screen and realized "I've got nothing!" Couldn't think of a thing - even though I have folders full of ideas and photographs. "Maybe I need another cup of tea." That didn't work. Perhaps I should check my email. And there it was - along with some sweet messages from friends - My Horoscope for the Day.

Horoscope for June 25

"Today your creative impulses could seem totally blocked, Ryannan. You might be trying to reach a deadline, whether it's one of your own or one imposed by someone else. You feel the need to get some work done, but your muse seems to have gone on vacation. If your deadline is official, phone whoever's in charge and ask for an extension. if you force yourself to work today, you won't be happy with the results." That was all the encouragement I needed. Far be it from me to argue with the stars. I went back to bed and pulled the sheets up over my head.Today is not much better. My thoughts are still in the garden where I've just spent the last couple of days.






I love finding these fossils in the vineyard.Random vignette from the casa.......................................................

The Gardenia and Arabian Jasmine are in full bloom and incredibly fragrant. One Gardenia blossom will perfume an entire room.
The lavender was ready for a first cutting..................................................

Micia follows me around the garden and keeps me company...............................
Cheers!

Ry

Photography By: Ryannan Bryer de Hickman

Sotto Il Monte Vineyards